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Could these be micro-mini crosnes (aka Chinese artichokes)? The dish is completed with creamy, buttery carrot sauce.Even dishes without a prominent veggie component shine.Cold-weather accompaniments start with warm farro salad, into which tender chard and preserved sour cherries are folded.The plate is smeared with purée of toasted walnuts (like an exceptionally rich tahini), and finished with crème fraîche and the farm’s tasty chives.

Accompanying a basket of decent breads is the first inkling that the kitchen of 32-year-old Turso, who is also an alum of Restaurant Nicholas and Stage House, and who recently completed a stint at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, has more than the usual to offer.

It is well balanced, as is the Fig Fusion, a mix of fig-infused vodka, blood-orange tea, agave nectar and cardamom.

The often-overstated “green restaurant” and “farm-to-table” designations are valid here.

It’s named for Polish Count Julian Ursin Niemcewicz, who married into the Kean family in 1800.

The two-story space, by Glen Coben, who also designed New York’s Del Posto, is full of striking and disparate features.

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